Kogyoku Apple Jam

As autumn comes and the cold sets in, Kogyoku apples start appearing in the shops. You think, ah, that time of year again — and then the Kogyoku season is over almost before it began.

Kogyoku are more acidic than most varieties, which makes them perfect for jam and tarts. Here is a jam recipe using them.

Ingredients:

• Kogyoku apples 2
• Sugar, 2–3 tbsp (depending on how tart the apples are)
• Sugar, 1/2 tbsp (for step 4)
• Butter10g
• Lemon1/4

1. Cut the apples into wedges and peel them. Put all of the flesh and all of the peel into a bowl and sprinkle over 2–3 tbsp of sugar. (Taste the flesh; if it is very tart, use more.)

2. After 30 minutes to an hour, liquid comes out of the apples. Once the sugar has dissolved in it and the whole thing looks glossy, transfer the flesh and peel together to a pan. * Avoid an aluminium pan, since lemon goes in later; the acid in the juice can discolour it.

3. Squeeze in a quarter of a lemon, cover, and simmer gently over low heat for about 20 minutes. Watch that it does not catch, but do not stir it.

4. Take out just the peel, move it to a frying pan, add 10g of butter and set over a fairly high medium heat. Once the butter has melted and coated everything, add 1/2 tbsp of sugar. Keep the heat where it is until you can smell the sugar beginning to caramelise. Meanwhile keep the flesh covered over the lowest heat to hold its temperature.

5. Put the peel from step 4 through a food processor until fine and smooth.

6. Pack it into sterilised jars. Put the peel in first and the flesh after, and you get a handsome two-tone of pink and deep red.

Spread cream cheese on bread and eat it with this jam — wonderful. Do enjoy Kogyoku jam while the season lasts.

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Extraordinary — I have only just noticed that you can buy Kogyoku apples on Amazon as well.